Today we continued our Russian Death March Adventure. We woke up late again, thanks to a botched wake-up call from the hotel that never came. After a slow start, we made it to the blini place for breakfast (I think it was technically before noon when we got there). Yum.

The girls dressed identically today over my strenuous but quietly voiced objections. Luckily, they were wearing raincoats most of the day so you couldn't tell. (OH – something funny M said this morning: after I explained to her what a shoehorn is, she said, "Is there a butthorn, for when your pants are too tight?" Brilliant.)

We then walked up to the nearest canal for a boat tour of the city, which was very cool. Because of the rainy, windy weather, we were the only ones who showed up. So we had a private tour with an English-speaking guide.

I thought these pics were cool – the camera focused on the raindrops instead of the buildings:

After the boat ride, we took an impromptu trip to the official museum of the Leningrad Siege. Daddy and I both read City of Thieves this month, a novel that takes place during the Siege, and we have gotten very interested in it. The museum is full of photos, documents, newspapers and cultural artifacts from the time period. Unfortunately, most of it was in Russian, but there were some signs and explanations in English, so we still got a lot out of it.

After the museum, it was off to the Fortress of St. Peter and St. Paul, across the Neva River. Thankfully, it stopped raining on our walk over. We toured the fort and the Church of St. Peter and Paul, where many Russian czars are buried.

Our favorite new snack:

Then we headed up to the ramparts on the fort (I don't think I've ever used that word other than in the National Anthem), where there were great views of the city across the river:

What we thought would be a 30-40 minute walk from the fort to the restaurant for dinner turned out to be 90 minutes, and then we couldn't find the place for another 15 minutes. It was a LOT of walking, especially for 2 hungry 7 year-olds. But they did a great job. We had another dinner of authentic Georgian food in a smoky but otherwise pleasant restaurant, and then took a speedy 15 minute bus ride back to our hotel. BY that point the sun had come out and the buildings along the Neva were bathed in light – just gorgeous. The girls got ice cream and I went to H&M across the street from the hotel, which didn't close until 11PM.

Loong day, but fun. Tomorrow we are going to take a boat to the Summer Palace. We're hoping for good weather, because kids go in and out of the fountains outside the palace and we're bring the girls' suits.

Then we return back to the hotel to pack, and we have a 6AM flight out on Saturday AM.

My observation of the day: Russians, at least those living in this city, are not a very joyful bunch. It's rare to get a smile out of anyone. Even the ubiquitous wedding processions around town seem to be going through the motions. I think of other countries – Italy, France – and people there take pleasure in things like parks, desserts, even children. Here, everyone seems like they are just trying to get through the day. It's sad. We went into a gorgeous tea shop today that sold expensive tea, coffeemakers, chocolate, etc., and the women working there looked like they were selling bus tickets. No smiles.

Anyway, we're smiling.